As a background, I am a Master Fretsman and have been doing scroll saw for a living for about 20 Years. We have started www.woodworkingparts.com as a way to help fellow woodworker’s and craft’s people.

Every scroll saw needs to have a magnifier light combination. It only needs to be a common light bulb type that has the round magnifier lens and a plastic case. I do not suggest the fluorescent type and you will at some time break the bulb and the light bulb is cheaper to replace. The magnifier makes cutting much easier and more accurate as you stay on the line better and make smoother cuts. It is also easier to see a tight turn that I will be explaining in one of my future posts with a #9 Blade. (See Blog Posting)

The second important item is to have a smooth slipper table. When it is new and often after, apply a wood finish wax on the table. I use Minwax brand wax but there are several other out there. You want a hard wax instead of a liquid as I feel it lasts longer. Also it does not transfer to the wood being cut. Over time, you will get wax, dirt, sap, and other things building up on the table. Just take a fine (200 or finer) sandpaper and rub over the table to clean it. I find this easier, faster, and does a better job than some liquid cleaner like paint thinner. Plus you are avoiding chemicals. Then re-wax. This all creates a good slipper table which then makes cutting, turning, and other moving much easier. It also prevents strain on the blade.

You also want a PERFECTLY SQUARE table most of the time. A  very simple task and no tools needed. Take a scrap 2×4 (or any softwood 1-1/2 thick wood) and make a cut about 1/8 to 1/4 into the wood. Take the cut and put it on the back side of the blade without the saw running and see if it slides in very easy to the back side of the blade. If you have the magnifying light above, you can  also set the cut close to the blade and eye if the wood exposed between the blade and cut is equal. If it slides on the blade and is equal by looking, the table is square with the blade. If there is more wood on either top or bottom, you will have to adjust the table slightly. As a final fine tune adjustment, not only do you put it on the back side of the blade, you also flip it over. So what was on the bottom when you cut it, is now on the top. This is the ultimate square up step. Check the square to blade every so often as over time you would be surprised how the table gets a slight movement.

An item not required, but is very nice to have is a foot switch. This way you do not have to always turn the saw on and off to make blade changes and so on. Also you can stop faster with the foot switch than by reaching for the machine switch. Just watch were you walk or step in your work area as the saw runs when you step on it if the machine switch is not turned off.

Last thing to do without failure is to oil any points your manual says to oil. A simple 3 in One oil works just fine. You can not do it to often. Failure to keep up on this will reduce the life of your saw and will require repair permaturely.